SETUP

Choosing the right filter plays a big role in the success of your livestock and the clarity of your tank's water. Too little filtration can result in ammonia spikes and the death of livestock, too much filtration, well, nothing happens. So I think it's always better to have too much than not enough filtration. When choosing a filter it is a good idea to choose a filter that provides 10x turnover of your water volume an hour. That is what most pro aquascapers recommend. For example, if you have a 20-gallon tank, you’ll want to choose a filter that turns over 200 gallons per hour. Most filters rate their gallon per hour by their pump, however, once you put everything that needs to go into filter, the gallons per hour are cut down dramatically as the filter's contents inhibit water flow. And the longer one goes without servicing their filter, the worse the water can get. So choose a filter that is going to be more than enough volume turnover to support your growing and thriving livestock. I tend to like canister filters as they can be put underneath the tank making the quitter. And most of the intake and outlet pipes are under the water's surface so they don’t splash water, or make additional noise.

Lastly, I want to make a note about what to put into your filter. The two major things that go into a filter are mechanical filtration in the form of sponges, biological filtration in the form of a porous material like generic ceramic rings. These two topics subjects are why I like canister filters. Mechanical filtration removes big chunks of organic material, like fish food that gets stuck up, plant matter like dead leaves, things of that nature. If you are using a hang on back (HOB) filter, it’s a good idea to get something that can be easily removed so you can clean off any debris that might build up. Things like rotting food, or plant matter, and cause an increase in ammonia that can be avoided by simply washing it off with tank water. The problem with HOB is they can not fit a lot of sponges cause them to clog quickly reducing flow. From there you’ll want to load up as much biomedia as your filter can fit, again, a canister filter will fit FAR more biomedia than a HOB. This will help ensure beneficial bacteria has a place to thrive. From there you can add what is considered chemical filtration but I find that one can overdo it with chemical filtration. Tanks will achieve a balance on their own if you let them. Things like active carbon, phosguard, purigen, all serve a purpose and are to be used as a tool, not a crutch. With proper maintenance and filtration, one doesn’t need chemical filtration on a daily basis unless they are solving an issue. However, most of these issues are removed when remineralizing our own RODI water.

In summary, shoot for a filter with 10x your tank's volume turnover per hour. Have your water first come in contact with filter sponges, your mechanical filtration. If you have the room, put finer and finer sponges to get your water crystal clear! Then have your water come in contact with as much biomedia as possible. And lastly, only if your tanks "needs" it, you can add chemical filtration. But remember that chemical filtration can sometimes only be a band-aid. Make sure you are addressing the problem you’re having with your water quality.